Between November and May we arrange a Theyyam performance at a village kavu — a shrine, not a stage. These begin before sunrise, and the performer, in towering ornament and body paint, is understood during the ritual to be the deity rather than an actor. It is not a show put on for visitors, which is precisely why it is worth getting up at four in the morning for. Later, a handloom weaving cooperative — Kannur cloth has been exported for over a century — and St Angelo Fort on the headland at sunset. Overnight in Kannur.