Met at Cochin airport and transferred to Fort Kochi, about ninety minutes. Settle in, then walk down to the Chinese fishing nets for sunset — they are still worked by hand and the light off the harbour at that hour is the reason most Kerala trips begin here. Overnight in Fort Kochi.

A full day in the old quarter: the Mattancherry Palace murals, the antique warren of Jew Town, St Francis Church where Vasco da Gama was first buried, and the spice warehouses that still smell of what they store. In the evening, a Kathakali performance — arrive an hour early to watch the performers apply their own makeup, which is more interesting than the play. Overnight in Fort Kochi.

Ninety minutes north-east to Athirappilly, Kerala’s largest waterfall — an eighty-foot curtain on the Chalakudy river, thunderous in and just after the monsoon and still substantial in the dry season. Vazhachal is a short drive further upstream and usually far quieter. Overnight near Athirappilly.

About four hours east on the Malakkappara forest road, which climbs through rainforest and tea rather than taking the standard highway — slower, considerably more beautiful, and with a genuine chance of elephants at the roadside. Arrive Munnar in the afternoon. Overnight in Munnar.

Eravikulam National Park in the morning for the Nilgiri tahr, then Mattupetty Dam, Echo Point and the Tea Museum. Note that Eravikulam closes for roughly February and March during the calving season; in those months we substitute Top Station. Overnight in Munnar.

Three hours south-east through cardamom country. Afternoon spice plantation walk, and in the evening a Kathakali or Kalaripayattu performance. Overnight in Thekkady.

The first boat on Periyar Lake at around 7am, which is the slot where animals actually come to the water. Back for breakfast, then four hours west to Alleppey. Board a private houseboat around midday, cruise Vembanad Lake and the village canals, moor by 5:30pm. Overnight on the houseboat.

Disembark after breakfast and cross to Kumarakom, forty minutes away on the far shore of the same lake — wider water, far fewer boats, and a bird sanctuary at the edge of the resort belt. Late afternoon is the best time in the sanctuary. Overnight in Kumarakom.

Ninety minutes back towards the coast to Marari, a working fishing village with a long palm-backed beach and almost nothing scheduled. Overnight in Marari.

Nothing planned. Cycle the coconut lanes, watch the boats come in, eat what they brought. This is the day the trip stops being a tour. Overnight in Marari.

Three and a half hours south to Varkala, where a red laterite cliff drops straight to Papanasam beach and the cliff-top strip fills with cafés in the evening. The most travelled-feeling of Kerala’s beaches and the most photogenic. Overnight in Varkala.

A last morning on the cliff, then ninety minutes to Trivandrum airport. Ending here rather than at Kochi saves five hours of driving on your final day.